Jewelry is more than just a beautiful decoration for the human body. When you decide to wear a special piece of jewelery you express our style, tradition and mood. As well as clothes is jewelry an extension of our personality. A jewelry designer who use this fact for the construction of complex concepts is Ariane Ernst.
Ariane Ernst was trained as a goldsmith at the vienna gold- and silversmith academy, was an intern at Stuart Moore in New York and extended her view within the field of fashion jewelry at the swedish fashion label H&M at their head office in Stockholm. This summer graduated Ariane Ernst with a master degree in “Applied Art & Design“ from the University of Applied Science Dusseldorf in Germany and founded instantly her outstanding label “Ariane Ernst Jewelry” where the Dusseldorf-based designer creates jewelry which is extraordinary and simple at the same time. Arianes work combines many contrasts: Her pieces are conceptional and pretty, simple but spectacular, trendy but timeless. Her inspiration comes from different creative disciplines, but is manly influenced by different fashion trends and art movements like minimalism and deconstructionism. In other words she combines old and new, trends and timeless forms and upgraded every collection with a smart concept.
Her series “brilliant rings” is based on the individual facets of the Tolkowsky brilliant-cut. The forms are transformed into a 3D-Print which are made from stainless steel and gold-plated in the end. In this way the brilliant rings reflect the form and hardness of expensive diamonds in a very smart and abstract way. The collection contains eight beautiful rings, which fits to every individual style. The same technique is used for her s.o.l. Pendants. s.o.l. is the shortcut for “symbols of life“ and stands for the individual route of life. Ariane creates sixteen forms, everyone represent a special set of character properties which fits to a personality. Every costumer can choose a form which fits perfectly to his own way of life and personalty to express this in an abstract and very pretty way.
The word pretty is also one of the most associated words in Arianes work. So she calls everyone simply “pretty” who wears her jewelry, because this the direct effect of her pieces: they make you definitely more pretty. And pretty is also the packaging which she creates for her brilliant rings: Glamorous boxes based on the form of a diamond which presents the rings in a very sophisticated form and look like a piece of jewelry as-self. No question Arianes beautiful portfolio promise a lot of good projects and Must-Have-Pieces in the future, so have a look on her online shop before she is so famous, that her jewelry is unaffordable.
In the following interview Ariane speaks about her inspiration, favorite techniques and her relationship to jewelry and design in general.
Hi, please introduce yourself a little bit
My name is Ariane Ernst and I am a jewelry designer.
I just finished my nine year education in jewelry design with a master degree in applied art and design. My approach is to create a new kind of jewelry therefore I work under the title "inbetween".
Why do you decide to work as a jewelry designer?
While I was still in school I did a work experience at my cousins atelier, who is as well a jewelry designer, she and that part of the family inspired me doing something creative.
I always loved to paint – even when I was very young and I never really stopped with it. So jewelry meant just another medium doing something creative and to express something.
I love the idea to create something which you can hold in your hands after working on it.
What is your relationship to jewelry in general?
I have a really intense relationship to jewelry. Jewelry can communicate so well, just like clothes and body language. Jewelry always have a meaning to me even when the form is just there to be pretty and decorative – it still tells something about the wearer.
How do you develop an idea/concept, can you describe you creative process a
First of all concept is very important to me and almost all the time the foundation of my creative process. Every form must be justifiable. Usually I have a theme to work on and then I get deeper and deeper into the subject matter and develop a concept out of it.
I have a big thing for minimalism so I guess that plays a role in creating as well. I most likely get inspired by contemporary art and fashion.
How important is the conceptional or theoretical aspect of your projects?
Very important. I can't imagine creating jewelry without a meaning in it.
Do you have a special audience or customer in mind when you start to design?
In the beginning of my education I didn't think so far. Now - I definitely have it in the back of my mind, but basically I like to design jewelry which I would wear myself – so I guess my audience have similar interests like I do. But that doesn't stop my creativity.
Do you also create the concepts for the photo shoots which presents your products?
Yes. Usually I do a lot of brainstorming before I actually start to shoot my jewelry. I like everything to be perfect so that habit slows sometimes my working process down.
Do you got a favorite material or technique?
Yes. I work a lot with 3d printing. I love the idea of designing one time a jewelry piece, but duplicate it as much as i need it.
What is the most important term or concept in your current work?
Which term is the most fascinating for you, thinking about design?
Are there any artists or designer you would love to collaborate with?
Oh yes. I would definitely like to collaborate with fashion designers and some contemporary artists.
Are there terms or themes you are very passionate about during these days?
Yes. That would be fragments.
Do you remember the first piece of jewelry you made?
Yup. That was a pendant out of silver which suppose to look like a tiger but turned out more like a mix of a puma and bear with a smiling face.
What kind of jewelery do you wear today?
I wear today my brilliant ring no.4 & 6 & 7 and my s.o.l. pendants. All in stainless steel gold-plated.
Photography by Nevs Lue